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known as the open air art gallery of the state. the floors. Devotees bring milk, grains, sweets
In the early 19th century, the well-to-do and other food for the rats who run around
Marwari merchants of the region migrated fearlessly.
and made it big in the metros (Calcutta and
Bombay) and built these superb havelis.
These beautifully painted frescoes are mainly
of Hindu mythology. Apart from Mandawa,
the small towns of Mukundgarh, Fatehpur,
Dundlod, Nawalgarh, Baggar and Alsisar
have many such beautiful mansions –
unfortunately some in ruins. Old havelis and
cozy lanes are the focus of a trail that leads
visitors through beautiful tales of ancient
times. The main havelis are very ornately Hand carved Lattice work on red sand stone on these
done and it is a treat to see huge chandeliers, stately homes of rich Marwari business person
exquisite paintings and carvings, stain glass Bikaner is one of Rajasthan’s prominent
windows and very beautiful furniture – cities and is still very traditional. It is known
mostly European. The best way to visit the for its beautiful and massive Junagarh fort,
bylanes of these quaint towns is on camel as well as the camel breeding station. The
carts whose driver/ owners act as guides. city also has two very large stately palace
Some of these “thikanas” have large stables hotels, the Lalgarh Palace (red sandstone
too and offer riding trails in the countryside. in Rajputana, Islamic and European
Mandawa Castle, as the name suggests, is architechure) and the Laxmi Niwas Palace
built in the shape of a castle with high walls (also in red sandstone but in Indo-saracenic
but has beautiful gardens inside. What is style). However it is the stately havelis in
important to note that as these places (castles, the old city which are very attractive and a
palaces, havelis) which have now been must-visit. The best known of the lot is the
converted into heritage hotels were not built Rampuria Haveli. Built in red sandstone
as hotels, and so generally no two rooms – every aspect of the havelis – jharokhas,
are alike. In most such places, introduction entrances, lattice work windows, divan
of modern plumbing has brought about khanas – is simply a masterpiece. Leaves and
unique problems. Some of the other very nice flowers decorate every jharokha, lending it
properties in this area are Piramal Haveli and a pleasant touch. These massive havelis are
Alsisar Mahal, decorated with golden work of the highest
After a hearty breakfast, we left for Bikaner quality. The wood carvings at the havelis are
via Fatehpur and Ratangarh, about 190 km also top-grade. The Ganga museum is the
and 3.5 hours away. The road is very good other place which is a must-visit for the art
and at times you can see small dunes on the enthusiast as statues from the Harappan era
way. The highlight of this day was when are displayed there.
we took a detour to visit the famous Karni The place we stayed at was an old haveli,
Mata “Deshnoke” Temple. This temple is called Bhanwar Niwas. It very close to the
also known as the Rat Temple as there are Rampuria Haveli, where even driving a small
thousands of brown rats scurrying around on car is a problem due to narrow and congested
SENIORS TODAY | ISSUE #27 | SEPTEMBER 2021 37
