Page 38 - Seniorstoday May 2024 Issue
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up until the 17th century. Built in the 5th        is Bukhara’s largest and more than 500
         century and oldest structure in the city,          years old. Its architecture and layout are
         the Ark is home to palaces and museums.            unchanged from the Timurid dynasty.
         Those were the days when a soldier or               Founded in 1417, it’s said that the Ulug
         priest would climb the 45-metre spiral             Bek Madrasa is the oldest surviving
         staircase to the top of the glowing Kalyan         madrasa in Central Asia. Ulugbek was
         minaret to light a signal fire every night         enlightened and an intellectual, devoting
         to guide travellers. They would enter              his skills to nourishing cities with
         through iron gates guarding the massive            educational institutions. In the  incredibly
         Ark Fortress; just beyond is the Khan’s            strict and conservative Bukhara, the
         vast open-air arena, looking like something        madrasa has a carved inscription at the
         straight from Game of Thrones, are the             entrance door  which reads: ‘The pursuit
         cells where prisoners spent their last,            of knowledge is the responsibility of every
         miserable night before being executed in           Muslim man and woman.’
         public. Here are tales about the secrets and        In Tajik, Chor Minor translates to ‘four
         traditions of old Bukhara, such as the code        minarets’, and is quite an intriguing
         of the doors: a woman caller knocks gently         attraction. The four minarets, crowned by
         on the wood; a man rattles the chain.              blue domes, are believed to represent four
           Bukhara has its fair share of magnificent        different religions practised in Central
         blue monuments. At sunrise and sunset,             Asia – Buddhism, Christianity, Islam and
         the cupolas, and the minarets glisten with         Zoroastrianism. In fact, one can see  certain
         gold and a metallic sheen. The ruler Emir          elements of these religions depicted on the
         Shahmurad ordered the construction of              towers  including  a Christian fish and  a
         Bolo Khauz in 1712. Legend has it that he          Buddhist prayer wheel. These ‘minarets’
         had red carpets laid out for him to walk           are decorated towers, used not for prayer
         down the road to the fortress Ark Citadel.         but as an entrance portal to  a long
         The peaceful and serene Bolo Khauz                 destroyed madrasa.
         Mosque has twenty beautifully carved                One can shop till you drop in Bukhara.
         pillars that hold up the ceiling and reflect       Under these domes and in plazas are the
         elegantly in the pond at the foot of the           bazaars where you can buy embroidered
         building.  Spotting the reflection of all 40       jackets, shawls, knives, jewellery, carpets
         pillars  is supposed to bring  great luck, 40      and wonderful hats from traders who’ve
         being a sacred number. The Po-i-Kalyan is          set up shops under the arches of ancient
         made up of the Kalyan Minaret, the Miri            caravanserai, where the camels slept.
         Arab Madrasa, the Kalyan mosque and the            Taki-Telpak Furushon – a colourful
         small Amir-Allimkhan Madrasa, which are            domed bazaar has lots of interesting shops
         little architectural masterpieces, beckoning       selling local arts and crafts. And To get a
         visitors from across the globe. The Kalyan         taste of the “real Bukhara,”  lie down  for
         Minaret built in 1127, was so ‘great’ that         a  traditional massage at a medieval bath
         when Genghis Khan conquered the city,              house. The Bozori Kord Hammam is one
         he spared the tower. All of its 47-meters          of the oldest in the world, built in the 14th
         have stood tall since, without the need            century and a great place to experience this
         for any restoration! The Kalyan mosque             exotic ancient ritual.


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