Page 40 - Seniorstoday May 2024 Issue
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Khiva harsh realities of life in the desert, a life
“Captivated by the echoes of the past.” lived according to rigid social conventions.
From a sleepy town on the outskirts of Once it was a slave trading city, with very
the Silk Road to the largest slave market strict rules and punishments for crime.
in Central Asia, from imperial Khanate Now a living open-air museum, its narrow
to Communist Republic: The stories of lanes are full of music, markets and
history are best told by the places where when we were there, colourful Navroze
they unfold. festivities; travellers are encouraged to join
Khiva, my favourite city in Uzbekistan in the dancing and try on furry hats made
is a seven-hour drive west through a of astrakhan wool.
bleak landscape of sand and stones, Tash Hauli is a palace inside the Itchan
where our van was buffeted by Kala with extravagant interior decorations,
legendary sandstorms. It is the smallest more than 150 rooms, and 9 courtyards.
of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities, circled Translated as ‘Stone House’, the complex
entirely by the desert, that defines its was once the summer home of the Khan
character: sand-coloured, sun-baked and in Khiva. Full of dazzling blue tiles and
perhaps the most intact, remote, and best delicately carved furniture, the most
preserved of them all. Walking through its intriguing section is the Harem. It’s
history is like walking through a museum said the Khan had five wives… and 41
without walls where every historical site concubines
unveils the secrets of bygone eras. One of the most captivating sights is the
Exploring the inner city surrounded by Juma Mosque with 218 wooden columns
a fortress that encloses ancient madrasas, supporting the roof. Originally built in the
mosques, minarets, and clay-coloured 10th century, the current mosque today
houses, is like time-traveling with your is mostly an 18th-century renovation.
imagination. Behind the massive walls is Entering, one’s eyes adjust to the dim light,
a small city centre known as Ichan-Kala. and the time-worn wooden pillars come
Walking the ancient streets of Ichan- into focus, some of them dating back to the
Kala, climbing the impressive mud walls, original 10th century. Golden light filters
visiting the palace, mausoleum, and through a skylight in the centre, spreading
mosques and enjoying refreshments in its out towards the four corners to illuminate
teahouses are all essential experiences in the intricately carved details on the
this atmospheric place. This little patch of columns – each one different and unique.
terracotta-coloured houses, dotted with The carvings on the columns read like the
bright blue tiles is one of the country’s pages of a history – with calligraphy and
most important UNESCO World Heritage floral patterns depicting the many tales of
Sites. The architecture, in colours of clay this city.
makes this town resemble a real life sand A turquoise-tiled mesmerizing minaret
castle city — something truly unique and embellished with teal and golden tiles
hard to find anywhere else in the world. shimmering in a red glow at sunset,
Khiva was an important trade hub of the Kalta Minor Minaret built in 1851 by
Silk Road, the setting for glorious and Mohammed Amin Khan, who dreamed
marvellous stories that also talk about the that it would be the tallest minaret at 80
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