We all know it as Sone ki Lanka, the kingdom of the all-powerful yet dreaded demon King Ravan. He was a devotee of Lord Shiva, he was blessed with so many boons which made him almost invincible. He was rich, powerful, a successful warrior, good looking, multi-talented and ideal for any woman to fall in love with, yet Sitaji was not impressed! That disturbed him, arrogant as he was, his ego was hurt and that led to his own destruction.
Indians have grown up hearing stories of the Ramayan and seeing it on TV time and again. We dream of visiting Sri Lanka to see the beautiful Ashok Vatika where Ravan had kept Sitaji while he awaited her consent. I had also imagined what the place would look like. What must Ravan’s Golden Palace looked like, Ramsethu the bridge over the ocean and all those fancy places.….
Let me tell you, if you plan to visit Sri Lanka to see all this from a historical point to view you will be highly disappointed. The stories of the Ramayana are embedded in our psych, and we thrive on examples of Lord Ram’s life, his virtuous character …. Maryadaa Purushottam Ram is how we know him.
We found, nor saw any architectural or historical remnants unlike the temples of India – even Angkor Vat despite being in ruins, they stand testimony to a by gone era! In Sri Lanka there was nothing pertinent to see even though the people of Sri Lanka speak highly of Sita ji and Hanuman Ji and have temples dedicated to them. We visited the Seetha Amman Temple, Sri Bhakta Hanuman Temple and the Ravan Waterfalls.
More than 80% of the current population of Sri Lanka are Buddhist and follow that religion (you can see many big and small Statues Of Buddha with a stupa like white structure behind it all along the city and Country roads) next come Muslims, Christians, and a miniscule of Hindus.
Religious tourism apart – Sri Lanka is a beautiful country and has plenty to offer from cool hilly regions to sun kissed beaches, green and winding country roads to sprawling tea garden estates, aromatic spice forests to huge botanical gardens, flanked will lakes and what not. Elephant orphanages to conservatory turtle farms, spectacular mask dances of colourful costumes of the local people to gemstone mines (specially sapphire) and beautifully crafted handicrafts, good hotels and mouth-watering sea food for the wanting and much more for the enthusiastic explorer.
A weeklong trip was too short. On the run every day, we packed in pretty much. Still too much was left out …… and didn’t have enough time to lounge leisurely on the beaches of Bentota savouring the magnificent sunshine and the sunsets, soaking ourselves or relaxing in the sun, sand and salt water. Covering just a small part, we only saw Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Bentota and Colombo – south western part of the island country. The north, where Jaffna is situated, is out of bounds as it is.
A visit to one of the Sea Turtle Conservation Projects was one of the highlights for me…. The whole of the southern coast of Sri Lanka is famous for breeding of Sea Turtles, which are endangered due to various reasons. Out of every 130 eggs a she turtle lays, only 30 or so will see adulthood. We saw two types. The Oliver Ridley and the Green Turtles. The new born babies are released into the sea only once they are bigger and the chances of their survival are more. These sanctuaries also rescue and take care of injured and sick turtles. Holding the new born babies in my hand was quite an experience!
Water sports are a great attraction because of the beautiful beaches with good facilities. However these activities are not for the senior tourist, unless you have a strong heart. Paragliding, parasailing, banana boats etc. are available for the enthusiasts.
The one thing even all seniors can do is go for a boat ride on Madu River which includes the visit to the mangroves. Although getting into that boat and getting out of it is a bit precarious… It’s manageable with some help which is always available. The river is a big one and the total ride takes about an hour and half. Dotted with many big and small islands in it. We were shown the smallest one with a Hindu temple on it, we also so one with s big statue of Buddha with a Stupa – Pagoda ( a Buddhist temple) The best halt was at the Cinnamon Island, which is full of cinnamon trees. We got the strong aroma of the spice even before we disembarked. Then we were shown how the spice is obtained from the barks, dried and packed – All done by hand. We also bought some cinnamon sticks, powder and oil from there, pure and un-adulterated.
Included in our trip were couple of others Spice Gardens which are maintained and promoted by the government of Sri Lanka. We saw the plantations of Sandalwood, Cocoa, Citronella, Jasmin, Cloves, Pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, saffron etc. They have authorised outlets to sell various oils and Ayurvedic medicinal products with trained persons to explain and demonstrate the benefits.
A visit to a Botanical Garden with its Palm Avenues was impressive. Luckily there are electrical vehicles available for tourist at a nominal price. The Orchid enclosure is really worth a visit. The variety of orchids and colours are awe- inspiring. Many different kinds of bamboos and other trees are also unique. We even saw a Palm with huge coconut like fruit, weighing more than 25 kgs each!
Sri Lankan tea is famous and most roads outside the cities are flanked on both sides by lush green tree plantations. Most have facilities called ‘Tea Factories’ in their vicinity, where the collected tea leaves are segregated, processed and packed. These places also have tea testing restaurant with a display of different kinds which are available. Even if you are not a tea drinker, the subtle fragrance of tea fills the air and attracts you. Most of these varieties of tea are to be enjoyed without milk and sugar. Let me warn you it’s not meant for the typical Indian tea lovers…we like our tea not black or green but brewed with milk. But then, it’s worth trying that tea at least once. Another point worth mentioning here is that none of the hotels we stayed in, provided powder milk or creamer sachets along with coffee and tea…. We had to get on request and only one hotel obliged. (So carry your own… If you must.)
At Kandy is located the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, originally built in 1595 to house and honour a tooth relic of Buddha. It is a UNESCO heritage site and hordes of people clad in white clothes carrying the exotic lotus (purple) flowers visit to offer prayers.
Don’t miss a chance to see their cultural shows, the masked dances are colourful, vibrant and vigorous – usually depicting scenes and popular sequences from the Ramayan.
The handicrafts, especially masks and other things are beautiful. The ones with minute craftsmanship are expensive. Cheaper versions are available at local markets. Must browse, even if you don’t want to buy. For you shopping and other needs carry US dollars and exchange to Sri Lankan currency at the airport itself after you land. Not a bad idea to carry some Indian Currency too, it works at places, and the best thing we found was that Our GPay, UPI etc. works at most places where the merchants facilitate Wi-Fi connectivity for you.
AYUBOWAN (means aayushmaan bhav!)
