Kashmir has always been a hot destination for tourists. In earlier days, Indians thought of Kashmir as an ideal destination for their summer vacation. Only few foreigners would dare to come during winter to ski at Gulmarg during their Christmas/ New Year breaks. Times have changed quite drastically.
I remember my father wrote in an article some 20 years ago …”Due to the cold climate, life in Kashmir almost comes to a standstill. Those holding government jobs shift to Jammu with their families for 6 months. Schools remain closed for three months and tourist arrivals are scarce. There isn’t much activity in the valley. There is enough snowfall to cut off Srinagar from the rest of the country as the highway remains closed off and on. Anti-freeze mixtures were used in motor vehicles to ensure engines do not get damaged. It was common to see fire being lit under trucks and buses to melt the diesel. Water in the pipelines also used to freeze. There were times when the upper layer of the lakes got frozen so hard that people would walk across the lakes! ”
Things are very different now. Attribute it to global warming, abrogation of Article 370 (from the safety point of view) or the constantly developing facilities, better travel options and ….. The travel bug has bitten our countrymen especially after COVID.
Due to the overall rise in temperature it doesn’t get that deadly cold. Even if it does, the cold spell doesn’t last too long. The lowest temperature ever recorded in Srinagar was -14.4 Degree C in 1893. But in recent years it usually hovers between minus -4 to -6 Degree C, for a couple of days. The first snowfall of the season calls for celebration. Friends and relatives greet each other with Nau Sheen Mubarak. Usually by the third week of December the severe winter sets in for about 70 days. It is known as Chilla Kalan, Chilla Kurd and Chilla Baccha depending on the extent of the cold. On the coldest of days, the sun can hardly be seen for a couple of hours. On such days I remember in my childhood, my father would park our Ambassador car in the sun and we would all pack ourselves in the closed car to enjoy a warm and cozy afternoon. In the mornings we were fascinated looking at the long icicles outside. Oranges and tomatoes would freeze and had to be kept in the sun for a while (or dunked into boiling hot water) before they could be eaten!
In recent times tourists feel safe to t
ravel to the valley. While the overall infrastructure has improved. The new Jawahar Tunnel has smoothened road transportation throughout the winter which used to be blocked often due to heavy snowfall and landslides. Rail services have been extended by up to a total of 272 km right through the valley, connecting the North and South Kashmir. It is of advantage to the tourists as well as locals.
With affordable tickets the Vande Bharat sleeper train starting soon will be running on the world’s highest rail bridge. The bridge is 359 m above the river and 35 m. taller than the Eiffel Tower. It is equipped with sensors that monitor wind velocity, temperature, humidity and vibrations. This Bridge across Chenab River is testimony to “Make in India.” This marvel of a bridge is part of the Udhampur Srinagar Baramulla rail link. The journey passing over many bridges and tunnels will provide passengers with breathtaking views and experience of a lifetime.
A recent statement by the Chief of Army Staff Gen Upendra Trivedi, who while speaking at a lecture in Pune announced that the Army will now be giving permits to tourists to visit the heights of Siachen Glacier, Kargil and the Galwan Valley. He called it – From Terrorism to Tourism. This has given increased impetus to adventurous tourists!
If you are flying into the valley you will cross and see the magnificent snow covered Pir Panjal Range. On landing at Srinagar rt you will feel a drastic dip in the temperature – keep your woollens handy. All tourist vehicles and hotels now have heating devices including central heating, room heaters, geysers and bed warmers. In earlier days people relied on the indigenous devices like the Bukhari – a drum like iron cylinder with fire inside. The second is a Kangri – the pot of fire encased in wicker work which has live coal in it. And of course the Pheran – the traditional overcoat like garment.
Gulmarg – 51 km from Srinagar is a golfer’s paradise which turns into a hub for enthusiastic skiers’ in the winter. It is one of the most beautiful winter sport resorts in the world. The Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering is located here. Qualified ski instructors are available to impart training in skiing, ice skating, snowboarding, ski-bobbing, tobogganing and sledging. There is a gondola facility to go up to the higher reigns. This Gondola ride is the second highest in the world and offers awesome views. Sporting equipment including boots can be hired at the location as required. ATVs and snow scooters are available on rent and add to the fun and adventure. It is important to mention that private and commercial vehicles are not allowed to plough in Gulmarg (except for drop and pickup to and from the hotel) as it is an eco-fragile zone.
If you are lucky, depending on the weather, you might get to ride in a hot air balloon. Additionally you can enjoy authentic Kashmiri cuisine at the Glass Igloo restaurant.
For the less energetic seniors, the valley offers spectacular views. The peace and tranquillity of the mountain pines provide a marvellous opportunity to soak up the sun while you enjoy a cup of the aromatic Kashmiri kahwa. You can also get a view of Nanga Parbat (the fifth highest peak in the world) and others like the Harmukh and the Apharwat Ridge. Other nearby places one can visit are Baba Rishi, a scenic area popular for the sacred shrine of a Sufi saint.
In Srinagar and other parts of the valley the Chinars are a welcoming site. They change colour thrice a year…. lush green leaves in the summer give a healthy and fresh look, turning to a bright amber during autumn from where they get their name – Ch-inar. In winter the leaves have all fallen and the branches look barren until the snow falls and they get a nice white upper layer. This beautiful landscape has to be seen and cannot be expressed in words.
TIPS FOR SENIOR TRAVELLERS:
- Carry adequate woollens, caps, mufflers, leg warmers, woollen socks. A windcheater/ rain coat will be useful.
- Goggles are a must – the glare in the sun can be unbearable at times.
- At least two pairs of comfortable walking shoes which will fit with woollen socks. Gum boots are available on rent.
- A (folding) walking stick can be very helpful while climbing steps and slopes. It provides additional support and confidence.
- ATVs, ponies, wheel chairs, sledges are available at most places on payment.
- No prepaid mobile connections will work in the valley. Ensure you have at least one post-paid one in your group. Wi-Fi connectivity is available in most hotels.
- Finally – Remember to carry all your medicines that you may need.
